Bharatpur « Lazy Birder

During a trip to Bharatpur and Agra for work, we managed two half days of birding on March 1 (2:30pm-6:30pm) and March 3 (6:30am-10:30am) 2004, at Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur (Rajasthan, India).

Being nuvo birders, we would like to mention that the park experience was quite overwhelming and much beyond our expectations, so much so that a visit to the Taj Mahal on the 2nd seemed completely boring (apart from the fact that 56 Ruddy Shelducks were seen behind the Taj on the Yamuna The park had plenty of water with colourful algae on it forming impressionistic landscapes and with birds adding their own dash of glamour it was nothing short of paradise. Though the park was certainly not in its full glory, our suggestion to birders who have not been there this winter would be to go there as soon as possible as the return migration seems to have begun. Mosquitoes have also begun breeding in megatons so carry plenty of repellent. With the tourist season almost over, the park is very peaceful.

We took cycle rickshaws on both days, not straying from the main metalled road. On the first day we went up till the temple and on the second day up till Chakwa-Chakwi, but despite that we managed 114 species of birds! Upon entering the park, we were greeted by many Chestnut-shouldered Petronias on both days. Other passerines seen included Red-throated flycatcher, Black Redstart, Common Chiffchaff, Humes Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Bluethroat, Baya Weaver and also the Orange Headed Thrush (seen near the nursery. When at Bharatpur, also look for this bird in the bushes near the barrier opposite the park book shop).

Raptors seen included Black Kite, Marsh Harrier (which was frequently the cause of commotion amongst flocks of ducks), Imperial Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle (?), Crested Serpent Eagle and Shikra. A single Long-billed Vulture was seen in flight on the first day. Egyptian Vultures were also seen. Collared Scoops Owl and Spotted Owlets were shown to us by the rickshaw guides, two attempts to locate Eurasian Eagle Owl did not bear fruit.

Star attraction for us were Bar Headed Geese which—in about three different groups—numbered about 300-400. Some gave us close and spectacular views, we could never have enough of them as they seemed to purify our souls! Ducks included Common Teal, Lesser Whistling Duck, Northern Shoveller, Gadwall, Comb Duck, Spotbill, Pintal, Brahminy Duck and Ferruginous Pochard (three seen). Cotton Pigmy Geese were present in large numbers and they looked amazing in the morning light on the second day.

Waders included Black-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Spotted Redshank, Green Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, White-tailed Lapwing and Little-ringed Plover. On both days we ran out of time to go and see the Sociable Lapwings; to see them one needs to go on the trail east of the temple.

On the first day a pair of Sarus Cranes was seen along alongwith a young near the temple. One the second day we saw another pair. Two female Black-necked Storks were seen at two different locations. The Painted Stork heronries seemed to be doing well with many of the young now coming out of the nests. A very interesting sight was of a Grey Heron feeding its young (two chicks) in the nest.

All three species of Kingfishers (White-throated, Pied and Common) were seen well with the latter two giving us spectacular flying displays. Both our common Woodpeckers (Black-rumped Flameback and Yellow-crowned Woodpecker) and both species of Jacanas (Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed) were seen. At one place there were up to 5 Pheasant-tailed Jacanas together. Other interesting species seen included Stone Curlew or Eurasian Thick Knee, Purple Swamphen, Common Hoopoe, Purple Heron, Great Cormorant, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Darter, Black-crowned Night Heron, Streaked-throated Swallows, Plain Martins and a lovely pair of Plum-headed Parakeets.

Species we missed were Common Cranes (we were told they were west of Chakwa Chakwi), Eurasian Widgeon, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Indian Coursers and Nightjar/s besides the Sociable Lapwings of course.

In all, a short but fantastic trip!

Report by Mayank Bhatnagar and Gaurav Bhatnagar
(March 11, 2004)